pcb assembly fixture
But I can\'t imagine spending $100-
$400 when they look so simple?
That\'s right. that\'s us.
So we invented this beautiful thing and you can make a PCB fixture yourself.
You need to access some basic (or advanced)
Metal tools and machines, materials about $30;
Or you can get a kit from Zeppelin design lab.
The fixture consists of a frame and a bracket. The Frame (02)
By four peripheral rails and two intermediate rails (
, As well as the upper rail with fixture.
In turn, the rail is made of a layer of top and a layer of bottom steel plate, laminated on a pile of aluminum filler pieces. The Stand (03)
Consists of front, rear and base.
The kit includes all sheet metal parts for cutting and bending, as well as all hardware (03a).
All you have to do is stick the parts together with carpet tape, drill some holes and assemble them with a screwdriver.
Whether you are assembling the kit or building it from scratch, follow these instructions.
Materials: Tools: cut sheet metal and filler pieces according to the cut list table.
With a big straight
Cut, or better cut \"Broken Head\" cut.
We used a strange strong cut. 05-07).
Determine the top of the surrounding rail (4 pcs)
Top rail (1 pc), the Clamps (8 pcs)
There is also a grandstand base.
Bend 90 Pax x 0 using a cheek flex or brake. 30” (5/16”, 8 mm)
Along a long edge of the rail part, along the two long edges of the fixture and the base (08-10).
If your material has a \"good\" side and a \"bad\" side, then there is a good side to bend the track with the outside of L;
Bend the clip with a good edge inside U;
Bend the base with a good edge outside U (11-12).
Some sheet metal products have clear plastic film on one or both sides to protect the finish.
Now remove any film from all filler parts (13).
Cover one side of the filler with carpet tape (14).
You don\'t want any tape or adhesive to leak out from between fill layers, so don\'t let the tape stick out on both sides.
Trim the tape neatly with a tool knife (15).
Remove the backing and carefully pair with the matching fill block.
Place the two parts on the edge of the desktop to keep the long edges completely flush.
Align the end carefully (16-17).
Squeeze the filling sandwich as much as possible and be careful not to bend (18).
Repeat for all 7 pairs of filler pieces.
Sort out four perimeter tracks to fill the sandwich and one of the top four perimeter tracks (
Bend along one edge. )
You need to draw a mark on one end of each stuffed sandwich using the top rail as the straight edge.
Fill the sandwich at the end of the surrounding track to keep the top of the surrounding track flat and tight.
This is how these two parts will be combined in the future.
Scratch or draw a mark at one end of the filler (19).
Repeat at one end of all four fillers.
Stick a piece of carpet tape to the surrounding track fill sandwich, starting with the mark you made, completely covering the surface (20).
Carefully trim the tape and peel off the backing.
Carefully align the bottom of the surrounding track with marks, and use the desktop to keep the long edges neat and flush (21).
Squeeze the bottom of the surrounding track tightly onto the filling sandwich.
Repeat all four surrounding tracks (22-23).
As you did in step 5, apply carpet tape on the other side of the perimeter track sandwich.
Before stripping the backing, as shown in the figure, dry install the top of the surrounding track onto the filling sandwich (24-25).
Study the pictures carefully.
One edge of the track is bent and the other has a small slot.
I accidentally dumped these for about half the time, causing the board to have no slots.
Line up everything.
It is very important to keep the part perpendicular to the desktop in order to create an even slot along the track length.
When ready, peel off the tape backing (26)
And attach the top of the surrounding track to the filling sandwich (27-29).
Repeat all four surrounding tracks.
Apply carpet tape on one side of the upper rail fill sandwich, keep at least 0. 08” (2 mm)
From both ends (30).
Trim, remove the backing and attach the corresponding top rail bottom to it with great care.
Use the desktop to keep an edge aligned and center the bottom of the upper rail precisely using your fingers and eyesto-
Along the packing end (31).
Like step 7, apply the tape on the other side of the upper rail.
Remember, don\'t stick the tape out to the side of the track, where you will form a small slot that will hold the board;
Let the tape hang on the other side.
Trim the tape and dry the top of the upper rail as shown in the exercise (31a).
Follow the description of Step 6 and check again that you will go along an edge of the track and create a slot on the opposite side of the bend (31b).
Now remove the backing and carefully stick the top of the upper rail to the filler sandwich.
The track in the middle is only the top, because the two sides are the same.
As in step 7, apply tape on one side of the middle track fill sandwich.
Dry install parts to the center at both ends of the topto-end and side-to-
Fill the side of the sandwich (32-33).
This is the trickiest step in the project as you have to center the middle track top along the filler without desktop help.
You may find it easier to put the top of the middle track on the filler and vice versa.
When confident, remove the backing and carefully stick the parts together (34-37).
It\'s easier to apply the top of another middle track, because now you can put the middle track on the edge of the desktop (38-39).
If you give up this step altogether, you can pass a practical blade between parts to separate them and you can try again.
You\'re running out of carpet tape!
If you have advanced sheet metal bending skills and tools, then you can try to form these parts yourself (39a).
Download the drawings provided, including the size and bending order.
Or, these parts are fully available-
Formed in the kit (39b);
Or you can skip the attempt to bend these parts and instead make the parts with wood chips trimmed on the table saw.
Download the template provided, print the full size and cut the pieces (40).
Stick the template to the corresponding part and mark the position of each hole with a nail or punch (41-42).
Note that only one intermediate track is marked.
You can allow yourself to tolerate about 1/16 \"(1 mm).
Please note that in order to mark the bracket base, two diagonal angles can be marked using the template;
Then turn over the template-
Mark the other two corners down (43-44).
Use a 1/8 drill bit on the press to drill 4 holes carefully: install the four surrounding rails together in a dry way to form a square frame.
Mark the corresponding end with a washable mark (50).
Drill 10 holes in the indicated position using the 3/16 \"drill: check the exit-
Side of burr hole.
Remove them using burrs removal tools or larger drill bits.
Place two square vinyl tape or a piece of thick tape at the bottom of each clip, opposite the hole (60-61. )
These will enable the clip to catch them quickly.
Gather the track above, the middle track with holes, the eight clamps and the hardware shown (62).
If you have a plastic film on your material, remove it as you move forward.
Assemble the fixture onto the guide rail using the 10x1/2 \"screw.
It\'s like this: screws, washers, fixtures (63), rail (64)
, Clip, washer (65), nut (66).
Do not tighten at this time;
Loosen the clip and swing freely. That’s it!
Your fixtures are complete!
By installing two rails with a fixture, your fixture has great flexibility.
We will explain how to use it at the Zeppelin design lab;
You will use it when you think it is appropriate.
Work three tracks to the top of the frame.
Slide the board into the lower right corner of the fixture and engage two slots.
Repeat in the opposite corner.
Slide down the middle track to connect the top edge of the plate (82).
Repeat with the second row of planks and the next Middle track.
Tighten the clip on the track to prevent it from sliding up, which will allow all your plates to fall off (83-84).
Install the third row boards if needed and fix them in place with the upper track (85-86). That’s it!
The arrangement should be stable.
Try to flip the entire frame to the other side of the board.
As long as each row contains boards of all sizes, you can install boards of all sizes into one setting.
You can use two rails with clips to secure a large plate in the center of the frame.
Don\'t try to put more boards in the frame than you can handle reasonably.
The more small boards you try to install, the more likely they will fall off, which will upset you and waste your time.
Some edges may be sharp.
Be careful how you handle fixtures.
If the edges exposed by the tracks bother you, you can wrap a tape around them.
Don\'t force a sticky railway!
It will eventually slide, cut or pinch your fingers!
Gently work the guide rail at one end, then work the guide rail at the other end.
Maintenance you may need to clean up the slots from time to time.
Scrape them out with a small piece of metal.
We do not recommend you to use any solvent or oil as you do not want to soften the tape that holds the fixture together.
If the track is still too glued to the frame after careful cleaning, you can shorten the track by rubbing the end with medium sandpaper.
You can also try to spray the lubrication tank with dry silicone lubricant.
Do not use graphite dry-
Lubricating oil, because this kind of thing will conduct electricity, this is the last thing you want to pollute the circuit board! !
If the track was ever layered, either add nuts and bolts at the point in it, or remove the screws, separate them with a normal knife, and replace the carpet tape.