basics - drilling holes for pcbs
Therefore, I find it very difficult to weld in a tight place.
My hands and fingers go where they shouldn\'t go and when I weld the slotted prototype plate I tend to lead to soldering shorts and the item doesn\'t work.
You can see in the photo an example of the mess I made with the strip board.
I tried the perf board and it was the hardest to do, the strip board and the Manhattan board (
Where you stick the copper sheet to the base).
The simplest thing for me is the Manhattan style.
But in the end, I decided to go back to my childhood and make my own printed circuit board (PCB).
Trembling hands can weld these things without difficulty.
For this instructable, I chose to focus on a problem with the pcb, which is drilling holes.
I also chose to show a project from start to finish that I call a brushing timer.
The timer consists of an ATTiny85, which is programmed to flash a red light and then flashes the green light 20x in 30 seconds for four cycles.
If you brush the four quadrants of your mouth with this timer, you\'ll finish brushing your teeth for the 2 minutes the dentist says you should do.
Of course, you can buy an electric toothbrush and time it for you, but this is not a DIY project. This is.
The aqueous solution of ferrous chloride is highly corrosive and must be treated with great care.
Don\'t see anything in your eyes or skin.
Dispose of waste properly.
The first obstacle I faced with making my own PCB for the ATTiny85 chip was drilling holes to install the 8 pins of the chip.
The first question is to figure out how to make 8-
Pin pattern on PCB.
The second is to drill the holes once they are arranged.
After trying to draw the pin position for free-
Hand, I found my perf board cache.
These holes happen to have the correct spacing of the chip pins.
All I need to do is put a board over copper.
Drill holes anywhere I need a chip.
Not very good.
I thought I could lay out the whole project on the perf board, Mark holes where I needed, drill everything at once.
The results are shown in the attached picture.
This one has the holes needed to install ATTiny85 and use one of the ports (0 or Pin 5).
It also has the holes required for the battery terminals on pin 4 and pin 8.
My brushing timer uses two ports of red and green LED-
OK I could have used the rgb led but I didn\'t.
As a stingy person, I find that I can arrange drilling templates for two projects-
Single and dual ports.
The dual ports in the picture are marked as pin 5 and pin 7.
It\'s on the right-
The hand side of the drill mold template perf board.
To help clarify the progress of this project, I enhanced my picture with some descriptions as well as the path and symbol of the component.
Black shows the connection to the battery and where it is turned on
Switch should be turned off.
The bold red line shows the copper continuity of the board itself.
In other words, there is no section etched from the plate. The right-
The hand side displays a resistor on pin 5 and a resistor on pin 7.
Those in turn lead to red LED (pin 5)
A green LED (pin 7).
The negative end of the Led is connected to the public ground of pin 4.
The second picture is the \"original\" drilling pattern.
The third photo shows the drilling pattern perf plate with the candidate copper clad plate, which will be the PCB for the project.
The fourth photo shows a vise that holds the drilling pattern to a copper clad plate.
Finally, the fifth photo shows the exercise itself.
The exercise itself is a cheap exercise I purchased at a port freight rate of around $7.
The diameter of the drill bit is the same as the hole on the perf board.
The first picture shows a copper bag with holes.
The film material above is the transparent tape I used to manipulate the circuit board in an etching solution.
After one or two failures, I found that my sharpie pen was not enough to prevent etching and I replaced it with nail polish.
The first time I tried, I covered the sharpie pen drawing with nail polish.
The effect is very good.
Now I only use nail polish.
My wife had only red nail polish. So it goes.
In this step, you will notice that the pattern of the photo is inconsistent.
They show the mode of single and dual port items.
I\'m sorry for not getting the consistent settings.
By the way, my mailbox signal system uses a single port board. (
I may write a manual for making three or four different types of email signal systems in the future.
Don\'t hold your breath, though. )
There are many articles on how to make PCBs.
I will not put a burden on you because of my efforts.
I will briefly state the steps I use, though.
The finished board looks a bit like a photo. OK.
I\'m not an artist.
It works, though rough. Yes, it works!
All exposed copper is gone, only the conductive part is there.
The next step is the welding assembly.
The second picture is the side of the weld.
My old finger is easy to do the job. Very easy.
I use a 220 ohm resistor on pin 5 and one on pin 7.
The front of the red LED is connected to the resistor on pin 5, and the front of the green LED is connected to the resistor on pin 7.
The negative poles of the two LEDs are connected to one pole of the switch, and the other pole is connected to the negative poles of the battery.
In the photo, you can see that I use the yellow wire as a switch, use the red wire as a positive pole, and use the black wire as the grounding terminal of the battery.
This step provides a schematic diagram.
Here, I won\'t go into the ATTiny85 in detail in addition to providing a reference on how to program.
Here is the post-Vine reference I wrote ATTiny85: done a lot of this and used Arduino UNO as a programmer.
I also used the Arduino Nano for this.
I have provided the program I am using here for this project.
These photos show the completed project.
The plate itself and the container I put in.
For your information, I use two CR2032 coin batteries to power the timer.
I use my fillings twice a day and polish my gold and silver fillings every day until they shine like the sun.