Terminology of printed circuit board-Part 2
PCB (printed circuit board) is an important part of electronic products.
PRODUCTS
how to make a professional printed circuit board: the complete guide
by：Rocket PCB
2019-09-03
Hello everyone, today I will show you how to make professional PCB to improve your electronics project. Let\'s start !
Exposure Box Pre-sensitive epoxy tin solution (
Optional but recommended)NaOH (
Sodium hydroxide)FeCl3Acetone (
You can find it in the supermarket)(
Here are the project links related to the PCB you will see in this tutorial: computer control box)
If you have designed your PCB in a file, you can skip this stepI am to draw my PCB using the software of the deformation, but you can also do it using the Fritzing software.
Most importantly, you can export your design. pdf file.
The PDF remains true in size, so if you print this file to a scale of 1:1, you won\'t have a scale issue after printing.
Now printing the PCB design on transparent sheetsI suggests you print at least 3 artwork and you will get better results as the opacity will be better in the exposure step. . .
In these steps, wear gloves, work in a well ventilated place, and wear goggles.
You will deal with strong alkali and acid.
Some easily evaporate in the air.
I would also recommend you to wear a lab coat or an old dress as the iron chloride spot cannot be cleaned.
Disgusting yellowbrown color . . . /!
\\ Don\'t pour liquid containing metal into the environment /!
\\ Use a bottle of chemical waste and you can give the waste disposal site.
Prepare a bath of relelator for the pre-Yang action epoxy resin.
It\'s sodium oh (
Concentration 15g/L)
Let it go to room temperature.
Preparation of another bath with iron chloride III solution (FeCl3)
If you want the reaction to be faster, you need to catalytic the reaction between acids (FeCl3)
Copper for PCB, which means that you need to heat the solution of iron chloride.
I use a hot tub to do this (see pictures)
Without this, the result will not be as expected.
Heat the water in the boiler to a temperature of about 80 °c, and once it\'s hot, pour the water into a container larger than the fecr3 1.
Place the FECR 3 tub in the hot tub.
Also prepared a water bath ,(
Distilled water is better)
Clean the PCB between each step.
It\'s also a good idea to put the suction paper next to you. . .
Absorb the water above when you clean the PCB and do not dilute the next bath.
Let\'s set up the UV-
Exposure light box.
Take the first piece of art and attach it to the pane with tape. (
Be careful with the direction of the artwork! )
Then add the second and third designs to the first one to increase the opacity.
This technique prevents UV rays from crossing the black line of the design.
Now you\'re ready.
You will use photosensitive resin, so you have to work where the brightness is reduced until the PCB is not developed. Are you ready to start? Go!
Carefully remove the protective film of the PCB.
Put the sensitive side into the design and secure it in place with adhesive tape.
Put all of this into the exposure box, face the sensitive side of the UV tube, and close the box.
No longer open it between 2\' and 2\' 30.
During this time, wear gloves and goggles to protect yourself from chemicals.
After the time is over, turn off the exposure box, open it and remove the PCB.
Immediately put it into the sodium hydroxide bath with the sensitive face facing up.
You should see a blue one right away. purple color (sometimes grey)
Into sodium hydroxide.
Shake the tub slowly until you see the design. (Around 30\" -60\")
Clean the PCB into the tank.
At this step, the PCB is not photosensitive at all, you can turn on the light!
Now copper PCB
Acid Bath facing (FeCl3)
Shake it back and forth slowly.
The solution always needs to be moved to where the response occurs. (
About 20\' to 40\' depends on the temperature of the water bath, the surface area of the copper to be dissolved, and the concentration of the FECR 3 solution. )
When all copper is dissolved by acid, remove the PCB, wash it into another bath and dry it.
Now you need to remove the remaining resin on the circuit.
To do this, put the PBC in the acetone bath.
Acetone turns purple. (Around 10\" -20\")
Copper has been exposed since then.
Then wash the PCB into the water and you\'re done!
This is an optional step, but I suggest you do this as it will help you to weld the assembly and prevent corrosion.
Put the PCB into the empty bath and pour a little tin chloride solution on it.
It will place tin on the circuit. *** Success !
You made a professional PCB!
Vertical drilling and 0 are used.
8mm drill bit drill each hole, use 1 if the pin of the assembly is too big to pass through.
The drill bit for expanding the first hole is 2mm. (
Always start with the smaller bit you have and drill a precise hole!
Very important! )
Your PCB is finished!
The only thing left is to weld your components on it!
Please leave a comment if you have any questions! ; )(
Here are the PCB related project links you see in this tutorial: computer control box)
Exposure Box Pre-sensitive epoxy tin solution (
Optional but recommended)NaOH (
Sodium hydroxide)FeCl3Acetone (
You can find it in the supermarket)(
Here are the project links related to the PCB you will see in this tutorial: computer control box)
If you have designed your PCB in a file, you can skip this stepI am to draw my PCB using the software of the deformation, but you can also do it using the Fritzing software.
Most importantly, you can export your design. pdf file.
The PDF remains true in size, so if you print this file to a scale of 1:1, you won\'t have a scale issue after printing.
Now printing the PCB design on transparent sheetsI suggests you print at least 3 artwork and you will get better results as the opacity will be better in the exposure step. . .
In these steps, wear gloves, work in a well ventilated place, and wear goggles.
You will deal with strong alkali and acid.
Some easily evaporate in the air.
I would also recommend you to wear a lab coat or an old dress as the iron chloride spot cannot be cleaned.
Disgusting yellowbrown color . . . /!
\\ Don\'t pour liquid containing metal into the environment /!
\\ Use a bottle of chemical waste and you can give the waste disposal site.
Prepare a bath of relelator for the pre-Yang action epoxy resin.
It\'s sodium oh (
Concentration 15g/L)
Let it go to room temperature.
Preparation of another bath with iron chloride III solution (FeCl3)
If you want the reaction to be faster, you need to catalytic the reaction between acids (FeCl3)
Copper for PCB, which means that you need to heat the solution of iron chloride.
I use a hot tub to do this (see pictures)
Without this, the result will not be as expected.
Heat the water in the boiler to a temperature of about 80 °c, and once it\'s hot, pour the water into a container larger than the fecr3 1.
Place the FECR 3 tub in the hot tub.
Also prepared a water bath ,(
Distilled water is better)
Clean the PCB between each step.
It\'s also a good idea to put the suction paper next to you. . .
Absorb the water above when you clean the PCB and do not dilute the next bath.
Let\'s set up the UV-
Exposure light box.
Take the first piece of art and attach it to the pane with tape. (
Be careful with the direction of the artwork! )
Then add the second and third designs to the first one to increase the opacity.
This technique prevents UV rays from crossing the black line of the design.
Now you\'re ready.
You will use photosensitive resin, so you have to work where the brightness is reduced until the PCB is not developed. Are you ready to start? Go!
Carefully remove the protective film of the PCB.
Put the sensitive side into the design and secure it in place with adhesive tape.
Put all of this into the exposure box, face the sensitive side of the UV tube, and close the box.
No longer open it between 2\' and 2\' 30.
During this time, wear gloves and goggles to protect yourself from chemicals.
After the time is over, turn off the exposure box, open it and remove the PCB.
Immediately put it into the sodium hydroxide bath with the sensitive face facing up.
You should see a blue one right away. purple color (sometimes grey)
Into sodium hydroxide.
Shake the tub slowly until you see the design. (Around 30\" -60\")
Clean the PCB into the tank.
At this step, the PCB is not photosensitive at all, you can turn on the light!
Now copper PCB
Acid Bath facing (FeCl3)
Shake it back and forth slowly.
The solution always needs to be moved to where the response occurs. (
About 20\' to 40\' depends on the temperature of the water bath, the surface area of the copper to be dissolved, and the concentration of the FECR 3 solution. )
When all copper is dissolved by acid, remove the PCB, wash it into another bath and dry it.
Now you need to remove the remaining resin on the circuit.
To do this, put the PBC in the acetone bath.
Acetone turns purple. (Around 10\" -20\")
Copper has been exposed since then.
Then wash the PCB into the water and you\'re done!
This is an optional step, but I suggest you do this as it will help you to weld the assembly and prevent corrosion.
Put the PCB into the empty bath and pour a little tin chloride solution on it.
It will place tin on the circuit. *** Success !
You made a professional PCB!
Vertical drilling and 0 are used.
8mm drill bit drill each hole, use 1 if the pin of the assembly is too big to pass through.
The drill bit for expanding the first hole is 2mm. (
Always start with the smaller bit you have and drill a precise hole!
Very important! )
Your PCB is finished!
The only thing left is to weld your components on it!
Please leave a comment if you have any questions! ; )(
Here are the PCB related project links you see in this tutorial: computer control box)
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